Charlotte {Large Crochet Square Part 2}

 Welcome to Part 2 of Charlotte.  In this part, we will be adding 4 triangles to the small central square to create a larger square.  If you have no idea what Charlotte is, have a look at the ‘Reveal‘ and Part 1 (where you will find all the information for materials, size, and gauge. For the photo tutorial below, I have used Scheepjes Sunkissed in shades 04, 06, and 16.  Please note that the photos are only to show you how to make the rows and do not reflect the colours I have used in the written pattern.
Abbreviations
Ch – Chain
Dc – Double crochet
FP – Front post (insert your hook from front to back around the post of the indicated stitch and complete the stitch as normal)
RS – Right side
Tr – Treble crochet
Sl st – Slip stitch
St/st’s – Stitch/stitches
WS – Wrong side
() and * – Repeat instructions between parentheses and/or asterisks the amount of times specified
Special Stitches
Cluster (Dc3tog) – Yarn over and insert your hook into the indicated stitch.  Yarn over and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the next stitch.  Yarn over and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on your hook.  See this tutorial.
5-tr Bobble – Yarn over twice and insert your hook into the indicated stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice. *Yarn over twice and insert your hook into the same stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice.*  Repeat from * to * 3 more times.  You should now have 6 loops on your hook.   Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.
Puff Stitch – Yarn over and insert your hook into the specified stitch/space. Yarn over again and pull up a long loop. (Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space. Yarn over again and pull up a long loop)3 more Yarn over and pull through all 9 loops on your hook. Ch 1 to close the Puff Stitch.
Crossed Doubles – Skip the next st and make a dc in the next st. Working over the last dc made, make a dc in the skipped stitch.
Standing Stitches – Standing stitches are exactly the same as regular stitches, except that they are made ‘in air’, without being attached to a previous stitch. Start with a slip knot already on your hook and complete the stitch as normal.  Here are some tutorials for thestanding double crochet  and standing single crochet to get you started.
Charlotte Part 2: Triangles
The triangles are created one at a time, using a single colour and working back and forth.  You will turn at the end of every row.
When looking at your stitches, the top of each stitch will be AFTER the post of the stitch, not in front of it, because the back of the previous row will always be facing you.  The only exception is when you make Row 19, where the top of each stitch will be BEFORE the post of the stitch, as the right side of Round 18 is facing you.
If you have trouble identifying the top of the ch-3, mark it with a stitch marker (included in the photos as a helpful reference).
All 4 Triangles are made with Colour C.
Row 19
With RS facing, join your yarn by making a standing Cluster Stitch in the first 3 st’s of any side {Photo 1}.  (Ch 2, make a Cluster over the next 3 st’s {Photo 2}) 13 times {Photo 3}.  Turn.
Stitch Count:  14 Clusters and 13 ch-2 spaces

Row 20
With WS facing, ch 3 (counts as your first dc).  Skip the first ch-2 space.  Dc in the next Cluster {Photo 2}.  (Make 2 dc’s in the next ch-2 space, dc in the next Cluster {Photo 3}) 11 times.  Skip the last ch-2 space.  Dc in the last Cluster {Photo 4}.  Turn. Stitch Count:  36 dc’s
 Row 21 - If you are having trouble identifying which loops belong to which stitch, mark all the FPtr’s except the first and last one , so that you can identify them in the next row.
With RS facing, ch 3 (counts as first dc).  Skip 2 st’s.  Dc in the next st {Photo 2}.  FPtr around the third cluster from Row 19 {indicated with an arrow in Photo 2 and illustrated in Photo 3}. (Skip the next st of Row 20 {indicated with an arrow in Photo 4} and dc in the next 2 st’s.  FPtr around the next Cluster from Row 19 {Photo 5}) 9 times.  There should now be 2 Clusters left.  Skip the next st and dc in the next st.  Skip the next 2 st’s.  Dc in the top of the ch-3 {Photo 6}.  Turn. Stitch Count:  22 dc’s (including initial ch-3) and 10 PFtr’s

 Row 22 - The Bobbles won’t look like much when you make them, but as soon as you make the first dc after the Bobble, it will pop out towards the back of your work (which will be the front of your square).
With WS facing, ch 3 (counts as first dc).  Skip the next 2 st’s.  Dc in the next 2 st’s {Photo 2}.  (Make a 5-tr Bobble in the next st, which will be the FPtr {Photo 3}.  Dc in the next 2 st’s) 8 times {Photo 4}.  Skip the next 2 st’s.  Dc in the top of the ch-3 {Photo 5}. Turn. Stitch Count:  28 st’s – 8 5-tr Bobbles and 20 dc’s (including initial ch-3)

Row 23 - With RS facing, ch 3 (counts as first dc).  Skip the first 2 st’s.  Dc in the next 22 st’s.  The first dc should fall in the first Bobble, the last dc should fall in the last Bobble {Photos 1 and 2}.  Skip the next 2 st’s.  Dc in the top of the ch-3 {Photo 3}.  Turn.
Stitch Count:  24 dc’s (including initial ch-3)
 Row 24 - With WS facing, ch 3 (counts as first dc).  Skip the first 3 st’s.  Dc in the next st {Photo 1}.  Dc in the last skipped st, working OVER the previous dc {indicated with an arrow in Photo 1 and illustrated in Photo 2}. This is your first Crossed Double made. (Skip 1 st, dc in the next st, dc in the skipped st, working OVER the previous dc) 8 times {Photo 3}.  Skip the next 2 st’s.  Dc in the top of the ch-3 {Photo 4}.  Turn. Stitch Count:  20 st’s {2 dc’s (including initial ch-3) and 9 Crossed Doubles}

Row 25 - Please remember that the Puff Stitch is closed with a chain stitch.  The ch-1 directly after the Puff Stitch is an extra chain stitch.
With RS facing, ch 3 (counts as first dc).  Skip the first Crossed Double.  (Make a Puff Stitch between the 2 dc’s of the next Crossed Double {Photo 2}. Ch 1 {Photo 3}) 6 times.  There should now be 2 Crossed Doubles left.  Make a Puff Stitch between the 2 dc’s of the next Crossed Double.  Skip the last Crossed Double.  Dc in the top of the ch-3 {Photo 4}.  Turn.
Stitch Count:  7 Puff Stitches, 2 dc’s (including initial ch-3) and 6 ch-1 spaces

Row 26
With WS facing, ch 3 (counts as first dc).  Make 2 dc’s in each of the 6 ch-1 spaces.  Dc in the top of the ch-3.  Turn.
Stitch Count:  14 dc’s (including initial ch-3)

Row 27
With RS facing, ch 3 (counts as dc).  Skip the first 3 st’s.  Dc in the next 6 st’s.  Skip the next 3 st’s.  Dc in the top of the ch-3.  Ch 1 and turn. Stitch Count:  8 dc’s (including initial ch-3)
 Row 28 - You will notice that the instructions between parentheses are not mirror-images of each other.  This is intentional and makes for a neater finish.
With WS facing, skip the first 2 st’s.  (5-tr Bobble, dc, tr) in the next st.  Ch 2.  (Tr, 5-tr Bobble, dc) in the next st.  Skip the last 2 st’s.  Sl st in the top of the ch-3.  Fasten off and work away your yarn ends.  The ch-2 space will become your new corner.

You have now completed one triangle.  You will need to repeat this for each side of the Part-1 square so that you end up with a square once again. source 
 1 - Charlotte {Large Crochet Square Part 1}
2 - Charlotte {Large Crochet Square Part 3}